PARIS (AP) — Sculptural figures resembling cane warriors, clad in billowing dresses that evoked skeletal forms, stood sentinel on Dior’s runway Tuesday, presenting a visual metaphor for the protection of vanishing cultures. The display marked another chapter in Maria Grazia Chiuri ’s ongoing fusion of fashion and fine art at Paris Fashion Week.
Celebrities including Jennifer Lawrence, Maisie Williams, Elizabeth Debicki and Natalie Portman were among the audience, captivated by a collection that revisited the 1960s and the genesis of ready-to-wear at Dior. As described by the fashion house, this era was a pivotal moment “when fashion left the atelier to conquer the world.”
Here are some highlights of Tuesday’s Fall-Winter 2024 displays:
DIOR 60’s ART FUSION: A MODERN TRIBUTE TO FREEDOM
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The cane frame sculptural decor by Mumbai-based artist Shakuntala Kulkarni made for a dramatic armor-like backdrop for designs that celebrated the freedom and empowerment of ready-to-wear clothes for the modern woman. The collection revisited the 1960s with a fresh, contemporary lens.
The collection’s footwear, with its buckled, strappy knee-high boots, directly mirrored the cane ceiling’s latticework, while elsewhere, garments paid tribute to the 60s’ iconic nipped waists and A-line silhouettes. Yet, Chiuri skillfully infused these retro elements with a modern twist, incorporating sportswear styles with round-shouldered coats that exuded a minimalist feel.
Scarves, a recurring favorite of Chiuri’s, were ubiquitous for fall, and were in the program notes heralded as “protective, enveloping, and embellishing as required” for a free and worldly woman.
Among the collection’s highlights was a voluminous black crossover coat with an Asian influence, cinched at the waist and paired with a funky, studded black leather beret, standing out as a testament to Chiuri’s innovative historic fusion. Echoing the color palette of Marc Bohan, Dior’s designer in the 1960s, the collection dazzled in white, orange, pink and neon green, with makeup tones to match. Exquisite pieces crafted in double cashmere and gabardine spanned little dresses, pants, coats, jackets and skirts, boldly cut above the knee, marking a chic, pared-down approach.
DIOR’S NOSTALGIC JOURNEY THROUGH FASHION’S PAST
Dior’s recent showcase was a deep dive into the annals of style history, offering guests a meticulously crafted lesson in the evolution of ready-to-wear.
At the show’s heart, the Miss Dior logo took center stage, elegantly emblazoned across an array of dresses, skirts and coats, each a testament to the brand’s rich heritage. The house provided attendees with detailed notes on the origins of ready-to-wear, spotlighting Dior’s pioneering role in the movement. Following Chloe’s footsteps, arguably the first recognized ready-to-wear brand established in 1952, Dior unveiled its inaugural ready-to-wear line under Bohan’s creative stewardship in the 1960s. This initiative marked a significant chapter in fashion and democratized luxury wear.
SAINT LAURENT’S STUDY IN SENSUALITY AND CONTRADICTION
Saint Laurent’s indoor display was a spectacle of shadow and light, drawing an illustrious crowd that included Lily Collins, Diane Kruger, Olivia Wilde, Zoe Saldana and Kate Moss. Navigating the near pitch-black venue, guests were ushered by torchlight past opulent green-gold brocade curtains, setting the stage for a show steeped in sensuality and intrigue. An opera soundtrack and the lingering scents of perfume underscored it.
Designer Anthony Vaccarello took his sensuality to new heights this season. The collection featured skin-tight, sheer silks in subtle, powdery palettes that meticulously outlined the models’ forms, reminiscent of an “X-ray.” Inspired by the iconic “naked” gown Marilyn Monroe wore on her last public appearance, a signature for the storied house, it made for a provocative yet elegant statement where fabric seemed to melt into the skin. Contrasting this sex appeal, silk caps added a contradictory layer of covering, mystery, and class to the ensembles – alongside the allure of the gleaming statement earrings.
The show’s mood was further accentuated by the addition of large, black patent leather coats, introducing a rich textural contrast that broodingly mirrored the runway’s glossy, oil-slick surface.
This collection is one of Vaccarello’s most memorable thus far, striking a skillful balance between revealing and concealing. Crepe georgette suits draped softly over the skin alongside marabou feather coats that billowed with a timeless, ethereal weight. This fall showed that Vaccarello is a designer in evolution, demonstrating his adeptness at weaving the house’s historical elegance with contemporary flair.
VOGUE TO CELEBRATE PARIS OLYMPICS WITH JOINT FASHION SHOW
Fashion magazine Vogue is setting the stage for a celebration of fashion and sports with a special show to herald the upcoming Paris Olympics. Under the leadership of Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour, the fashion magazine announced it will host a unique gathering of France’s premier luxury brands on June 23, coinciding with International Olympic Day and setting the scene for the Games beginning just over a month later.
The “Paris (fashion show) will be a tribute to the Olympic Games,” Wintour said in a statement. “It’s a dream to make the Place Vendôme Vogue World’s home — I can’t think of a setting that better captures the city’s rich history and glamour.” This event will mark a significant moment, celebrating 100 years of French fashion alongside the spirit of the Olympics, as Paris last welcomed the Games in 1924.
The show promises a fusion of fashion and Olympic disciplines, featuring renowned labels like Jacquemus, Balmain and Louis Vuitton, its men’s lines now under the creative direction of Pharrell Williams.
VAQUERA REDEFINES PUNK WITH A DASH OF PROVOCATION IN PARIS
Vaquera, the brand that first captured the fashion world’s attention with a dramatic U.S. flag gown and its sweeping train years ago in New York, has once again made waves. This fall, designers Patric DiCaprio and Bree Taubensee transported the audience back to the vibrant energy of the 80s, infusing their collection with a mix of denim, fur, tulle and an undeniably punk attitude, all while introducing a modern twist.
The duo unveiled an audacious American currency print in a bold homage to punk’s rebellious roots. The design — which manipulated the image of Andrew Jackson with graffiti and hearts, and stamped the word “FAKE” over an image of the White House — was not just a feat of artistic defiance but also a commentary on the value systems that dominate today’s society. This striking print graced everything from a crisply tailored button-down and tie to a cummerbund on effortlessly chic trousers.
GERMANIER CHANNELS UPCYCLED DISCO GLAMOUR AND CABARET CHIC
One brand that captures the essence of upcycling glamour with a disco twist commanded attention: Germanier. Founded by Kevin Germanier, who has become synonymous with sustainable luxury, the latest collection was an homage to the electric atmosphere of cabaret. He masterfully intertwined his commitment to environmental consciousness with high fashion, presenting a line that was nothing short of disco-fabulous.
This season, the runway sparkled with eye-popping neons and gleaming jewels, embodying the extravagant disco era. A standout piece included a dress adorned with billowing glittered disco ribbons, creating a dynamic cascade of color and light.
Accessories were no less dramatic, with a neon yellow boa and disco-inspired opera gloves that offered style contradictions.
Germanier’s innovative use of materials was apparent in a microdress constructed from giant gleaming jewels. The collection’s palette vibrated with vivid colors, from the ethereal floaty gowns made of acid-toned ostrich feathers to a mini adorned with multicolored candies, showcasing Germanier’s unique blend of whimsy and sophistication.
